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Horse Tail Types & Facts

| Horses | January 2, 2015

A horse’s tail is very important to him. Not only does it act as a fly swatter in summer, it keeps his “bottom” warm in winter! The area between a horse’s hind legs is the only part not kept warm by hair, so it loses the greatest amount of warmth if left exposed by too much trimming.

From a horse’s point of view, the best tail is a natural tail.

Some horses have thin ragged tails, while others have tails so thick they cannot be braided for formal riding events and shows. To make the best of their appearance, thick or thin, different tails are treated in different ways. Some styles even go in and out of fashion!

 

Banged Tail
A “banged” tail is cut straight across the bottom to give it a neat appearance. It makes a scraggly tail look thicker.

bangtail

Docked Tail
Often inflicted on harness horses to prevent their tails being caught up in the harness. Tail docking is illegal in many places as it’s considered cruel.

 

Pulled Tail
The hair around the dock area, at the top, is pulled out to give the tail a more refined look. Show horses often have pulled tailspulltail

 

Braided Tail
The tail is first thinned at the top and then braided neatly around the dock for showing. Both manes and tails are usually braided for hunter classes.

 

First Aid Kit list for Horses

| Horses | June 14, 2014

Your Equine First Aid Kit

Your first aid kit can be as simple or elaborate as you choose. As long as you start with the essentials, you can build it up as you go if you wish. Here is a list of things to get you started;

Sterile cotton roll
Sterile contact bandage
Sterile gauze pads, assorted sizes
Sterile gauze wrap
Cling wrap, new roll
Adhesive wrap and tape
Leg wraps
Sharp scissors
Stethoscope
Hemostats
Rectal thermometer with a string and clip attached
Latex gloves
Antiseptic solution or surgical scrub
Steel cup or container
Pliers, for pulling nails
Flashlight and good batteries
Note pad and pen
Permanent marker

First Aid for Horses

| Horses | June 14, 2014

First aid for Horses and other equines
FIRST AID

If you have mules or horses you know that sooner or later you will be faced with a medical emergency of some kind, things happen no matter how careful we are. There are several factors that make equines especially accident prone like the instinctive flight or fight response, establishing the pecking order in the herd, and their natural curiosity. These account for many of the cuts, bruises and abrasions that most of us contend with. There are other types of medical emergencies such as colic, acute lameness, foaling problems, heat stroke, and seizures. You need to learn how to recognize, respond quickly and calmly, and what should you do while waiting for the vet.

How Prepared Are You ?

If you have equines there is bound to come a time when you will be faced with a medical emergency. You must not allow panic to overcome you, this will cloud your judgment and ability to asses the immediate needs of the injured mule/horse. Have a plan of action, rehearse the initial steps you will take in an emergency situation. Here is a guideline to help get you started;
A. Keep the veterinarian’s number, including after hours number, by each phone. Don’t rely on everyone knowing the speed dial code.
B. Consult with your vet about a back-up or referring vet, in case your regular vet can’t be reached.
C. Know the most direct route to an equine emergency center in case you need to transport the mule/horse. It is also a good idea to keep written directions in the first aid kit or near the phone
D. Keep a list of friends and neighbors names and phone numbers who could assist you in an emergency posted next to the phones.
E. Prepare a first aid kit and place it in a clean, dry , readily accessible place. And make sure that everyone using the barn knows where it is.
F. Keep a smaller first aid kit in your trailer and a more scaled down version for taking on trail rides.

ãTop of Page

EMERGENCY WOUND CARE

The initial steps you take to treat a wound can prevent further damage and speed the healing in your mule. Of course how you proceed will depend on the individual circumstances, and you must exercise your good judgment. The following is to be used only as a guideline.
1. Catch and calm the mule and move him to a stall without causing distress or further injury.
2. Get help before you attempt to treat or evaluate the wound. At best it could be difficult to inspect or clean a wound while also trying to hold the mule.
3. Once you have located and evaluated the depth and severity of the wound contact your vet if you feel emergency medical attention is needed.
4. Consult you veterinarian before attempting to clean the wound or remove debris or penetrating objects, as this may precipitate uncontrollable bleeding.
Don’t put anything on the wound except cold water or a compress.
5. Stop the bleeding by covering the wound with a sterile absorbent pad, not cotton, apply firm, steady, even pressure to the wound.
6. Do not medicate or tranquilize unless directed by your vet. If there has been severe blood loss or shock, the administration of certain drugs can be life threatening.
7. If the eye is injured do not attempt to treat yourself. Contact your vet and wait for him.
8. All mules/horses being treated for lacerations or puncture wounds will require a tetanus booster.

Why horse needs electrolytes

| Horses | June 14, 2014

When your horse sweats, he loses sodium and chloride (which combine to form salt) along with potassium and trace amounts of calcium and magnesium-simple inorganic compounds that are collectively known as electrolytes. These substances dissolve in the horse’s body fluids and regulate many chemical processes that occur both in and between the cells. The kidneys are the primary organs involved in regulating electrolyte levels, conserving or excreting the elements as necessary to maintain a stable state of equilibrium (homeostasis) within the horse’s body.

For the most part, a balanced diet supplies ample amounts of electrolytes for a moderately worked horse. Grain is high in phosphorus, and legume hays are excellent sources of calcium. The soil, in which grain and hay are grown, however, largely determines the feed’s mineral content. Your state department of agriculture can provide specific information about locally grown crops, and in many states, it’s possible to receive a complete nutritional analysis of your horse feed.

Only if your horse sweats heavily and frequently he is likely to require supplemental electrolytes. Salt is the exception, since horses virtually always need more than they can acquire from grain and hay. Give your horse free access to a trace-mineralized salt block (it isn’t advisable to add salt to his feed or water).

He will generally consume no more and no less than his body needs one half-pound per week is average for an adult horse.

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